Sourdough panettone and viennoiserie

"Sourdough Panettone and viennoiserie" is a complete treatise on the subject of sweet leavened doughs fermented with natural leaven. The book is divided into three main parts: Theory, Practice and Recipes.

The "Theory" chapter provides a hitherto unpublished understanding of the phenomena involved: evolution of the bacterial flora during manufacture, the role of minority bacteria, production of dextrans, etc. Several scientific studies shed new light on the subject. The author also presents the basics of the universal method that will allow you to create your own sourdough viennoiserie recipes.

The "Practice" chapter allows everyone to become familiar with the basic equipment and techniques. You will find essential and concrete information: where to buy your moulds, your flour... Many steps guide the reader from the management of the yeast, through the mixing and shaping stages and up to how to produce candied fruits.

Finally, the Recipes section offers you more thantwenty ultra-detailed recipes. With the participation and recipes of the world's greatest chefs: Ezio Marinato, Mauro Morandin, Alfonso Pepe, Daniel Jorda, Miquel Saborit, Christophe Louie, Emmanuel Revuz and Roy Shvartzapel!

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Mechanical Kneading

The mechanical kneading of bread dough made from wheat is divided into 3 main steps:

• The first step is the Frasage, which is intended to bind the ingredients together. It lasts 2-3 minutes.
• The second step is the structuring of the gluten network, which will enable the proteins in the dough to bind to one another by oxidation. The binding of these proteins is called the 'disulfide bridges' (SS-Bond)
• The third step is the Bassinage, which is intended to give the final consistency to the dough by the addition of liquid (water or oil in some cases), after the proteins are related to each other. It also allows fine tuning of the final temperature of the dough.

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Manual kneading

We offer you a simple technique of manual kneading consisting of three steps:

• The first step is the 'Frassage', which is intended to bind the ingredients together. It lasts around 2-3 minutes.
• The second step is resting the dough for ten minutes allowing all the ingredients to hydrate homogeneously
• The third step is the formation of the gluten network with a single gesture allowing the elongation of the dough and its oxygenation.

To preserve the gluten structure, we avoid gestures like compression and tearing the dough.
Finally, note that the 'Bassinage' is a difficult operation to perform during manual kneading.

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Give a tour

When at rest, the gluten network starts to relax.
There are many baker gestures for "tightening" gluten.
The most visual is "le rabat" or "le tour".

This technique is used at different times during the process of bread making and whenever we feel the need to give back elasticity to dough. For example :

• at rounding: Demonstration
• in shaping: Demonstration

We see that although conducted on different pieces of dough and at different times, these gestures are similar.

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Gluten network

A dough is mainly composed of starch and gluten.
Washing starch in a trickle of water, one sees the gluten network.
This network is a three-dimensional framework, flexible, extensible and waterproof.
In the native state, gluten is difficult to digest for a significant portion of people.
Yet, we will see that natural sourdough fermentation will make it more digestible.

Take some time to understand how to form gluten and how it evolves over the bread making.

Gluten is composed of proteins related to each other by disulphide bonds. These bridges are formed by oxidation of thiol groups during the kneading and fermentation processes.

In the natural fermentation of a sourdough, the gluten network will commence to deconstruct by protease which are enzymes naturally present in the dough. Gluten is predigested and during the sourdough fermentation makes it much more easily assimilated. This is one of the interests of natural fermented sourdough.

Note that proteases are active in an acid medium (pH around 4), a fermented yeast dough does not allow the pre-digestion of gluten.

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Shaping

The purpose of this process is to give the bread its final form.
This step also helps to tighten the gluten network for the last time, if necessary.

• Demonstration Didatic by folding and rolling.
• Demonstration at real speed by three different people.

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Toppings

The purpose of the 'topping' is to provide different finishes to the surface of the bread. Toppings influence the aesthetics and the final taste of the bread.

• Demonstration on sponge
• Demonstration into mold, waterless
• Demonstration in a seed tray directly.

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Grignages or scarification

The Grigne is often called "signature" of the baker. This refers to the appearance of the baked bread.

We often see the 'Grigne' also strongly influence the final structure of the crumb.

The Grigne allows the release of gasses during the baking process and this output is localized or distributed from the surface of the dough, facilitated or not, the crumb structure is found to be different.

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Calibration of the pH meter - PH measurement

PH is the hydrogen potential.
It is measured using a pH meter.
The pH is related to the acidity of the dough. The higher acidity levels of the dough the lower pH you have.
In other words, the pH measurement gives us very important information on the bacterial activity of the sourdough.

We remember that yeast does not produce acid during alcoholic fermentation.
Yeast: Sugar-alcohol + CO2
Bacterium: Sugar-acetic acid and / or lactic + fermentation residue (CO2 +/-)

The activity of yeast is detected by an increase in volume of CO2.
While the activity of bacteria are detected by the acidification of the medium and lower pH levels.

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Division Scales and Boullage

Most doughs need to be divided and weighed to offer customers an end product of consistent weight.

Scaling/Weighing is a simple operation which still requires some explanation.

Demonstration :

• Both hands must be coordinated
• The floured side of the dough must remain in contact with the balance and table

The 'boullage' has two main goals:

• To give the pieces dough an constant shape before forming
• Restructure the gluten network if necessary

• Demonstration on large piece
• Demonstration at real speed on large piece
• Demonstration with both hands on small parts in one direction and the other.

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Flat bread recipe

Many flatbreads have common technical base. Examples include the Indian Naan, the Armenian lavash and the Sardinian Carasau.

The main differences lie within the choice of flour and fermentations.

Lavash is the example traditionally kneaded with yoghurt (lactic ferments). Whereas the Indian Naan and Lavash are fermented with a yeast base.
The Sardinian Carasau bread is made of flour and semolina while the Naan and Lavash are made from a light wheat flour.

All these flatbreads share their final thickness and rapid method of cooking in a hot oven.
The Naan and Lavash are baked in a Tandoori oven, while Carasau Bread is baked directly in a Roman style oven.

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Recipe Brioche Vendéenne

Brioche is a tradition that historically varies in areas of France according to local agricultural production and social classes.

The points that differentiate the types of brioche is by adding different types and quantities of fat, sugar and eggs.

By region and social origin, raw materials were very different back in the day.

In Provence, for example, which was for a long period a very poor region, the traditional brioche known as "Le pompe à l'huile" does not contain eggs and the fat used is Lamatière Olive Oil.

In this tutorial, we offer a recipe for a 'Brioche Vendéenne' where the fat is a mixture of butter and cream in a dough with few eggs and partially hydrated with milk.

The resulting structure is light. Braiding also gives a long, fibrous crumb.

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Gluten Free Bread Recipe

Gluten is a giant protein that forms during the kneading and the fermentation of a dough. Gliadin and glutenin are naturally present in the wheat, rye, barley and spelt grains. This is a resilient macromolecule, which is expandable and airtight.

A significant part of the population tries to avoid gluten consumption, continuously or episodically. The main reasons is usually medical or well-being.

This demand encourages us to push new boundaries in breadmaking and take an interest in other grains such as rice, corn, sorghum, chickpeas, lentils, buckwheat, cassava, or nutsedge.

These new grains gives us the opportunity to develop our techniques as bakers and discover a whole new range of products.

In this tutorial, we propose the creation of a very simple bread using rice and buckwheat flour.

Our flour is milled at the Moulin du Chambelland which produces only organic flours and gives a gluten free guarantee. All of the rice crushed by the mill Chambelland comes from Camargue or the Pö Valley.

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Romana Pizza Recipe

Pizza Romana embodies the revival of quality pizza in France and Italy.

It allows you to reconnect with the origins of pizza, which is simply a flat bread accommodated with fresh and seasonal ingredients.

We will proceed in this tutorial to create a Romana style pizza. Giving instructions of creating the dough with fermentation and baking tips. Afterwards, we will discuss the finishing with the use of different toppings.

This production can be used with a large number of different flours (white or whole). The dough can be made from a low-gluten flour and worked in a slow fermentation.

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Homestyle Bread Recipe

Many individuals wish to create their own bread at home.

Except not everybody has time to become a professional baker!

Here we offer a simple way to make sourdough bread at home with very little equipment.

Pour réaliser ce pain, vous aurez besoin du matériel suivant :

• A bowl
• A big spoon
• A mold
• An oven
• A thermometer.

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Pompe à l'huile recipe

This traditional dessert of the Provence region in France, was first introduced as one of the traditional 13 desserts of Christmas. A long time ago, the region of Provence was very poor and the people could not afford expensive ingredients such as eggs and butter. A thing of abundance of which they had was olive oil. Thus creating this traditional dessert!

It is a types of brioche that is made with olive oil. For those seeking a delicious dessert, but are vegan, here is the perfect recipe!

In this tutorial, we will show you how to make this traditional dessert of Provence.

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Gressin Recipe

The Gressin is a dry and long breadstick, which comes from the Turin region of Italy.

Since its appearance in the fourteenth century, its elongated shape would become the product we know today as the breadstick.

The breadstick is normally sold dry but it is also sold in Turin in a form called "morbid" that still contains some moisture.

Its diameter varies from 3-4mm, up to 1cm.

The extremely thin breadsticks are called gressinis.

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Country Loaf or Pain de Campagne Recipe

The country bread is one of the great classics of traditional French sourdough breads.

It is composed of 90% of half-wholemeal flour (Type 80) and 10% rye flour. We have chosen to work in this tutorial with a whole rye flour (type 170).

It is usually the bread consumed by traditional French sourdough bread lovers .

After a slow kneading process, we will propose in this tutorial 3 types of procedures possible to obtain different shapes and forms of the bread.

We will include:

• A traditional division and shaping
• A 'Planche'
• A 'Mass'.

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Braiding technique

Braiding is one of the most classic brioche shaping techniques.

On the aesthetic aspect, braiding provides a long and fibrous crumb, which is highly appreciated.

We will show in this tutorial a sequence of braids from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 strands.

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Kanel Boller Recipe

The Kanel Boller is an iconic pastry from Scandinavian countries, particularly in Sweden and Norway. It consists of a brioche dough low in fat or a milk bread dough and a cinnamon butter.

Even though the composition of Kanel Boller is fairly simple, the braiding of this pastry give a spectacular final appearance.

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Sechskornbrot

The sechskornbrot or 6 grain bread in German, is a traditional bread from southern Germany.

This sourdough bread is madewith approximately the same amount quantities of whole wheat flour and rye flour.

It is distinguished by its powerful aromas and its exceptional preservation.

Its breadmaking process requires a number of technical issues that we will discover together.

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100% Rye bread 'Tourte' Recipe

The production of this pure rye bread is an exercise in style.

The north face of a mountain climber or the improbable balance of a soloist.

Traditionally practiced in throughout Germany, Austria, Switzerland, but also in Auvergne or in the French Alps, we find variations of this product. Countries where the conditions of wheat crops were difficult to cultivate because of altitude or climate conditions and where the rye was the main grain of local people.

In the French tradition, the rye bread has a thick and colorful crust and a creamy and honeycombed crumb. The aromas are powerful and with the exceptional shelf life. The 'Tourte' is relatively flat to maintain a meaningful crumb-crust balance.

(In Bavaria, the product is traditionally drier, rounder and less moist. The color is less pronounced and the crust remains fine.)

-Technically, we will be very attentive to the viscosity of the dough.

This viscosity changes with the degradation of pentosans by acid medium pentosanases.

PH control is important for the consistency of the dough.

As the temperature also affects the speed of action of enzymes and enzyme reaction times.

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Comment étalonner et utiliser son pH-mètre

Dans ce tutoriel, l'étalonnage et l'utilisation du pH-mètre sont détaillés pour un usage en boulangerie.

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Comment rafraîchir son levain de panettone

Ce tutoriel explique dans le détail comment entretenir ses levains de viennoiserie. Pas à pas, tranquillement, découvrez tous les points clé de cette phase préparatoire à la production des panettone, brioche au levain, croissant au levain... C'est sans doute le point le plus compliqué à maîtriser avant de vous lancer dans la réalisation des viennoiseries au levains.

Pour aller plus loin, nous vous conseillons la lecture du livre "Panettone et viennoiserie au levain", de Thomas Teffri-Chambelland, édité aux éditions Bread Éditions. https://bread-editions.com Dans ce tutoriel, sont détaillées toutes les étapes de la gestion des levains de panettone (ou de viennoiserie en général). Depuis les étapes de bagnetto, en passant par les rafraîchis courts et de conservation.

To go further, we advise you to read the book "Panettone et viennoiserie au levain", by Thomas Teffri-Chambelland, published by Bread Éditions. https://bread-editions.com In this tutorial, all the steps involved in the management of panettone sourdough (or Viennese pastries in general) are detailed. From the bagnetto steps, through the short refreshments and conservation. Step by step, quietly, discover all the key points of this preparatory phase for the production of panettone, sourdough brioche, sourdough croissant? This is undoubtedly the most complicated point to master before you start making sourdough pastries.

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Comment créer sa souche de levain naturel

Dans ce tutoriel, apprenez à démarrer un levain naturel à partir de farine de seigle, de son et d'eau. Puis lancez vous dans la fabrication de pains au levain naturel!

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Porridges de seigle et recettes associées: pumpernickel et rugbrod

Ce tutoriel détaille la réalisation des porridges de seigle, nature ou toasté. C'est l'étape préalable à la réalisation des recettes de pumpernickel et de rugbrod. L'utilisation des porridges est par ailleurs une manière intéressante de personnaliser de nombreuses pâtes à pain.

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Comment faire sa pâte d'agrumes

Ce tutoriel montre comment réaliser sa pâte d'agrumes bio en quelques minutes. Faites vous même vos pâtes de citron, d'orange, de bergamote et utilisez-les pour la fabrication de vos panettones, brioches, biscuits...

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Réalisation d'un TTA (Total Titrable acidity)

Ce tutoriel détaille la réalisation d'un TTA (Total titrable acidity). Le TTA mesure l'acidité totale de la pâte, sans distinction des acides lactique et acétique. C'est une mesure plus longue, plus compliquée et donc moins utilisée que la mesure du pH. Il n'en reste pas moins que c'est une mesure complémentaire de celle du pH et parfois très informative.

Matériel nécessaire: Agitateur magnétique, Becher, pipette graduée, NaOH 0,1mol-1, phénolphtaléïne.

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Faire un rafraîchi de levain

Ce tutoriel explique ce qu'est un rafraîchi de levain. Il détaille également comment et pourquoi effectuer des rafraîchis. Retrouvez toutes ces informations dans les livres que nous publions sur https://bread-editions.com/

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Différencier les farines de meules des farine sur cylindres

Dans ce tutoriel, sont présentés des petits trucs permettant de bien différencier les farines produites sur meules des farines produites sur cylindres.

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Présentation d'un moulin à meules de pierre de type Astrié

De nombreuses artisans s'équipent aujourd'hui de petits moulins pour produire tout ou partie de la farines qu'ils panifient. Nous présentons ici un moulin de type Astrié, avec des meules de 50cm de diamètre. Un deuxième tutoriel permettra de voir le moulin en fonctionnement et d'indiquer comment le régler au mieux.

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Bien régler son moulin à meules de pierre de type Astrié

Ce tutoriel explique les points de vigilance à avoir pour bien régler le fonctionnement de son moulin à meules de pierre de type Astrié. Ces bons réglages permettent d'obtenir un meilleur rendement et une meilleure qualité de farine.

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